Sunday, September 16, 2012

Let's talk about Rolex, collectors, and collecting

As a kid growing up, I always wanted a Rolex. I think it's one of those things that is drilled into you from birth: Rolex is the best, most accurate, and (insert any/every superlative word here) watch the planet has ever known and always will know. I bought fake Rolexs as a kid with clear casebacks and sea-gull movements, of course my friends didn't know better and I felt pretty cool. Now, 8 years later, I'm still a kid but my tastes have matured slowly, a small credit is owed to fakes but much more is owed to the collectors on forums and online that share the passion for the industry.

My first "real" luxury watch


The first fine watch I owned was a Breitling Colt GMT from high school graduation, I consider myself a traveller and had a friend who gave me a Breitling catalog he had obtained from an air show. I was also enamored with Breitling and Hublot at the time because I had two classmates from extraordinarily wealthy families back in Geneva that owned them. I reviewed the endless propaganda that the brand websites generated and decided that for my budget (under 2000 dollars new) the Breitling was the right fit. After all, I did owe it to the brand after having owned a fake chronomat that had a subdial fall off.

Never having had occasion to handle a rolex, I eventually got the chance to examine a used modern explorer and submariner at my favorite jeweler Erik Spitzer of Radcliffe's in Baltimore, Maryland. I was honestly not impressed at the flimsy feel of the tuna-can bracelet and the sharp edges of the case. I had been seriously affected after seeing Patek Philippe's standards and demanded that all sharp edges be polished. But somehow, the trip ignited a desire for a "real watch" which I eventually found out meant held an original manufacturer movement in a specifically designed case. Rolex technically did fit the bill but seemed to be regarded as a little higher or equal to Omega but also as pompous and unfitting for a young man.

My impression of Rolex took a turn at the Rolex dealer in Chicago, where I had tried on a yellow gold Submariner date and a white gold Daytona. The watches felt much more solid than the pre-owned pieces I had held earlier, and in the glittering lights of the boutique, did not seem to be over-done. I eventually learned that the Submariner was the first dive watch and that stamped end-links with lug-holes were a signature, as was the now much copied helium release valve.

I eventually did buy a rolex of my own, a 14060M no date submariner which I felt was the best balance of tradition, ruggedness, and wearability. I no longer fool myself that the "rugged" watches made by Breitling, Rolex, Omega and the like are anywhere near what G-Shock can handle, but at the same time I've developed more realistic expectations about watches, embracing all their merits and shortfalls. In these 8 years since my fakes, I've learned to appreciate the history of watches, the design, the people who work on them, and most of all, the other collectors that collectively form the wonderful ecosystem in which we all learn.

Wednesday, September 12, 2012

Journey of Reverso: Part 3 (Reverso Gran'Sport Chronograph)

In looking for something quite innovative, I had always thought that dual sided Reversos represented the most logical use of the Reverso case. What impressed me the most about the Gran' Sport is its uniqueness amongst Reversos. While the Squadra is proportionally (1:1.6) not a bona fide golden ratio Reverso, the Gran'Sport line is (and is the only other Reverso that bears the same proportion other than the traditional reversos. Another appeal of the watch is its size, at a modest 28.3 mm x 43.5 mm x 12.6 mm, only a hair larger than the Reverso GT I reviewed previously. The movement is an original chronograph movement and as far as i know the only dual sided chronograph.



Slightly barreled case, compared with the GT cased Reverso Duo



Basics Specifications:
Functions: Recto: Time, date. Verso: Chronograph with seconds hand and 30 minute retrograde counter.
Water resistant 5 atm (not 1000 Hr control)
Caliber 859, based on caliber 829
Manual wind
45 Hour power reserve
38 Jewels
317 components
28,800 vph
4.5 mm high
Column wheel control of chronograph functions


The only real photo of caliber 859 anywhere, courtesy of PuristSPro

Integrated bracelet/strap design in case material and rubber only.
MSRP (Last known in USD). Steel version on steel bracelet 15,000. Steel on rubber strap 14,250. Gold on gold bracelet  30,400. Gold on rubber strap 23,750.
Dial versions: White or grey, with applied triangular markers or printed linton numerals
Released 1998, discontinued 2006








If you want more technical information about the merits of this watch, Purists has a wonderful article linked below.

http://www.network54.com/Forum/234648/thread/1055556997/Information+on+the+Gran%27Sport+Chronographe

I can only comment on the overall experience of wearing the watch. Personally, while gold is an admirable material, the Gran'Sport is in all essence a sports watch and is better in the steel version. Although I prefer the steel bracelet for comfort, the rubber strap is a suitable match as well. The back of the case has two curved ridges that elevate the case back off the wrist for comfort. The watch wears similarly to a 38mm watch and wraps very well around the wrist. The integrated bracelet has brushed center links and polished outer links and is wonderfully comfortable with two 4mm adjustments at the clasp (standard on newer JLC sports bracelets).

The bracelet is designed with removable spring bars all along the bracelet, and the case is attached via a notched bar and a screw securing the notch which should prove more reliable than a spring bar.

Accuracy is excellent and within 1 second a day and the seconds hand glides smoothly. Chronograph pushers are not wobbly and the chronograph function works just as promised. With the possible exception of the price, it's probably the ultimate sports watch. In theory it's possible to go swimming with it but I certainly haven't tried and sometimes I wish the water resistance was a healthier 100m.

Video review: Reverso Gran'Sport Chronograph (Watch in 720!)