Comparison: Patek 215 PS versus Vacheron Constantin 1400

While the Calatrava seems to garnish all the attention, one often overlooked but worthy opponent is the Patrimony by Vacheron Constantin, especially the Contemporary in platinum with a platinum dial (pt950). The two are often eerily similar, both using refined JLC ebauches. In this case, the ultra thin automatic JLC Cal. 920 spawns three great movements: The Patek 28-255C, the VC 1120, and AP 2121. The Patek and VC are both similarly finished (despite Patek's recent migration to its own PP seal instead of the Geneva Seal) with a Gyromax free sprung balance.

However, recently things have taken a turn, and since manufacturers like Breitling are even no longer satisfied using ebauches, both watches have started to migrate towards in-house movements. The VC now uses the VC Cal. 1400 and the Patek uses their Cal. 215 PS. Being very much so a movement enthusiast, it's disappointing that although prima facie, the two movements look similar, closer inspection reveals the superiority of the Patek. One reason is perhaps the price difference of USD 7,700 (Patek is USD 39,600 and VC is USD 31,900) which can buy a steel JLC Master Control with money saved. Another is Vacheron's relative inexperience in making movements, while a superb finisher and complication builder, Vacheron acquired HDG in 1998 in order to establish VCVJ (Vacheron Constantin Vallee de Joux) which now does all the component manufacturing for the company. The 1400 was the first movement by the renamed establishment and so the less than perfect mainplate finish could be forgiven.

Philippe Dufour is reported to have complimented on the finish of the 1400, but he seems not to have gotten a look underneath the main bridges. The bridges are indeed beautiful and more elegantly shaped than the Patek with the only visible complaint being the lack of a free sprung balance wheel.

(Photo from VC via The Hour Lounge)

A superb review of the 215 can be found at timezone: http://people.timezone.com/library/horologium/horologium631671451971451015

(Photo from Purists)

and a review by ei8htohms of the 1400 reviews its minor shortcomings on Purists.

The movements are pretty similar, both are 9''' (21.9 mm), 28,800 vph, the Patek is 2.55 mm thick and 18 jeweled and the VC is 2.6 mm and 20 jeweled. Both were Geneva Seal but recently the Patek bears the PP seal. According to watchtime, the Patek is extremely accurate with a max deviation of 3 seconds and averaging a mere +0.2 seconds a day while the VC deviates a max of 6 seconds averaging +1.5 seconds a day.

Let me know in the comments what you think, or does the accuracy not matter since both are dress watches anyways.