The specifications
Movement SB18-3
Movement 26.5 mm diameter (~12 ligne), 3.86 mm thick
Based on Miyota 8200 (not official)
Power reserve of 42+ hours
Hacking, manual wind
21,600 vph
38 mm x 9mm case
Water resistant 3 atm
Genuine lizard strap, turned edge, fully stitched, lined in full grain leather
Tang buckle with the tiananmen logo stamped underneath.
Limited edition of 2008 pieces
Production started in 2008 (not all 2008 pieces were made in the same year)
The Movement
(Aftermarket stingray strap that's not even the right width on my own Beihai)
The most distinct feature of the Beihai is the movement
Some analysis suggests that the movement is based on the Citizen/Miyota 8200, but BWAF says it's in house. I think this is quite similar to the Nomos alpha movement based on the Peseux 7001. The modifications to the movement, even if it's not totally in house, are extensive.
There are striped finishes (Cote de Pekin?) on the 3/4 plate and 4 screwed on gold chatons. All screws are heat blued. The swan neck fine rate adjustment is real and even the tiny micrometer screw is blued. The baseplate has a perlage finish. There is no anglage on the plates but overall the finish is much better than can be expected of a sub-1000 dollar watch. The stripes are relatively shallow and the perlage is not quite as fine as some of the swiss brands, but overall the finish is very unique and well executed. From what I am told, the gold chatons are real and screwed in.
The movement retaining ring is metal, which is a nice touch.
I am told that servicing costs only around 100 USD, which is an absolute bargain compared to any swiss brand.
The same SB-18 movement is also used in the variety of art watches BWAF makes, including many hand painted enamel dials and cloisonne dials that retail in excess of 10,000 dollars. A solid gold version of the movement was used in a 200,000 dollar special edition Athena watch.
The watch
Since it's intended as a dress watch, 38mm is, in my opinion, the perfect size. The case is finely made with a screw in case back and comfortable onion shaped crown. The fancy lugs are
reminiscent of watches from the 1950's. The crystal is very slightly domed which creates a high quality feel. All markers are applied on the dial, and the symmetry of the dial is well executed. The caseback engraving is deep instead of shallowly etched.
The strap is of surprisingly good quality and alone would cost at least 150 dollars to buy, fortunately BWAF sells them for around 100 which is a bargain. The edges are turned (instead of cut) and fully stitched so I would expect the strap to last a good length of time, even with daily wear. I have worn mine for about 40 days total so far and there is no sign of wear on the strap except the inevitable creasing.
A wristshot on my 6.5 inch wrist
Nice write-up. Reviews on this watch are pretty rare! I'm thinking of buying one, but can't decide if a Chinese watch/movement can EVER be worth nearly $400. How do you feel the movement quality is compared to Swiss ETA or Sellita movements? How is the winding action? Does the crown stop easily at each position, or does one have to be careful not to miss them? I'm looking at the next version of this watch, with the added date complications.
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