The Most Important Sub-$1000 watch of 2013: Tissot Powermatic 80 Review

The PowerMatic 80 represents that ultimate democratization of a practical mechanical watch. Coming in at around 600 USD for the steel, non-COSC version, it seems like the steal of the horological century. 

The watch is 41mm in diameter and 9.75mm thick, but wears slightly larger due to its restrained appearance. The case is a mix of brushed, polished, and patterned surfaces which give it a subtle, modern appeal. The front crystal is sapphire and appears to be anti-glare coated, while the rear is a display back which shows the C07.111 movement, a modified ETA 2824 with a reduced frequency of 21,600 vph, new synthetic escapement, and improved hairspring which all contribute to the new 80 hour power reserve.

The 80 hour reserve is the most important, and arguably only, feature of the watch. The 72+ hour power reserve has always been largely in the realm of watches priced above $5000 featuring in-house movements such as the Grand Seikos or the Rolex 4130 movement in the Daytona.

Overall quality

The solid end link bracelet is quite nice, with a brushed finish and a polished line down the middle. The extra links are attached with pressure pins and the clasp is a double deployant. The finish of the case is better than can usually be expected at this price range, but shows some irregularities where the polished and brushed surfaces meet. The dial is a matte black (or matte white) and appeared to be very clean. 

Design

With a modern appearance that's very understated, I really feel this watch is a winner in terms of design. The polished details gives it a subtle flash. The lack of literature on the dial is also a huge plus. The watch wears very well and due to its relative thinness, is quite comfortable. The bracelet doesn't have any noticeable sharp edges either.

The bad

I think the watch is, at all levels, perfectly appropriate for its price class. However, with a largely plain dial and relatively small movement, I'd preferred to see Tissot make a 38mm or 40mm version of this watch. This would temper the large expanse of matte black in the center of the dial and make the watch a more serious dress watch option. The choice of a display back, while understandable for marketing, is also dubious. With a crudely finished movement, I'd rather see a nice plain or engraved steel back.

The Powermatic 80 is undoubtedly a huge step forward. While it may never make its way into watches of other brands due to the reduced supply of ETA movements, I hope that more affordable watches can have such a useful features like the long power reserve.

*My wrist is 6.25" in circumference but relatively flat so tends to handle <42mm watches okay.