The Apple Watch is cheap (for a watch): Part 1–The Case

I’m a watch enthusiast and an Apple enthusiast but I will try to objectively explain why the Apple watch is probably the least well understood piece of tech in recent memory. Unlike members of the press, I have only managed to preorder one for April 24 delivery and managed to try a few combinations of the stainless steel one on at the Apple Store during a try on appointment. However, I will add more next week as I get to use my own watch more.

Part 1: The case

A quick shot of the 38mm Milanese Loop on my small 6.25 inch wrist

As a watch, the Apple watch is incredibly cheap. For as little as $549 you can own a cold forged 316L (the same stainless steel used by almost every fine watch manufacturer except Rolex) watch of well-designed proportions (38/42mm) that has a high domed sapphire crystal and zirconia ceramic back. It’s hard to find a watch where the manufacturer explicitly says their cases are cold forged below about 3000 dollars for a Breitling Colt, and even then you’re getting a generic Swatch Group ETA movement worth about 350 dollars in a nicely made case. Rolex, Grand Seiko, and Patek Philippe also cold forge their cases but overall it’s an expensive process that can be accomplished much more quickly and cheaply with casting.

Just compare Rolex’s 904L video and Apple’s Stainless Steel videos.

If we consider the Apple Watch a fashion item, the economies are even favorable. Hublot sells their Big Bang (an iconic, but technologically basic watch) in 316L steel for around 13,700 US. This is, after all, a watch with a non-Chronometer certified Swatch Group Valjoux 7750 movement worth 750 dollars (and that’s being very generous considering Hublot buys the as ébauche kits in bulk).

I consider the aluminum Apple Watch Sport to be a significantly worse value than the stainless steel because it takes away from the most important features of a fine watch: durability. The aluminum case is actually a fine feature since fine manufacturers such as FP Journe have used Aluminum before. It's rather the glass crystal and the plastic back which are hallmarks of disposable fashion watches. 

The FP Journe Octa Sport in aluminum sells for around 30,000 USD

The gold Apple Watch Edition is an interesting scenario. The watch is 17,000 USD with a tang buckle and 22,000 USD on their innovative modern buckle. While I think 18K gold is a fantastic material for fine watches, I can't justify the price even in the context of fine watches. While for 700 dollars you can get an apple watch in stainless Steel that rivals a 6000 dollar Rolex submariner in fit and finish, 22,000 can buy a Calatrava or even a used 5035 18K annual calendar from Patek Philippe. Call me crazy but give me the 5035.

The 18k Apple Watch Edition has its place in the market, but it's too rich for my blood. 

One Patek 5035 please!

All in, there is nothing quite like the Apple Watch (not the Edition, not the Sport) in the horological world in terms of value for the case. In the following parts I will discuss the straps and bracelets, the experience, and the horological merits of the Watch.