Friday, August 31, 2012

Journey of Reverso: Part 2 (Reverso GT Grande Taille)

Before I start this review, I think it's best to review some comparison shots from the last reverso I reviewed.


 Size comparison between the GT and the Squadra




After deciding that the squadra was perhaps not the best fit for my 6.5 inch wrist, I moved onto a Reverso GT with a ostrich strap. I had always liked the idea of a classic and constrained Reverso with slightly modern proportions.


The current JLC Reverso GT


The first JLC Reverso (1931)
The older "pre harmonized" GT



Basic specs:
42.2 x 26 mm x 9.5 mm
Water resistant to 3 atm
Time only
Caliber 822, manually wound, 134 parts, 21,600 VPH, 45 hr power reserve, 21 jewels, KIF shock protection (2), flat hairspring. Introduced in 1992, 22.6 mm x 17.2 mm x 2.3 mm.
Current materials: 18K pink gold, stainless steel (both on strap or respective bracelet)
MSRP (USD): 7,150 (Steel on Alligator), 8,100 (Steel on steel), 15,900 (pink gold on alligator), 30,300 (pink gold on pink gold) (Current as of Aug 31)





The version I purchased at the time was not the current version, although it uses the same movement and has the same case dimensions, there are two key differences: The dial does not have the wave guilloche, and it is not water resistant.

I think as a dress watch, this is the pinnacle. I used to consider the Reverso Tribute to 1931 the best but after trying it on and loving the watch as just a watch, I decided it was too large to serve it's correct purpose at 46 mm x 27 mm. Both watches use the same movement and are somewhat similarly thin (2.5 mm difference). There's not much to talk about regarding the movement, it's modestly finished, reliable, and has been in production for 20 years and used in a variety of watches from JLC reversos and also some Dunhill watches.

In some ways, perhaps more ways than one, this is a particularly boring watch. It's definitely a staple watch and a classic dress watch which is exactly what makes it quite boring. The dial of this vintage version is plain silver with printed numerals, the back is plain steel, and the clasp was a single deloyant clasp which made the standard length strap terrible for small wrists. The current version has a wavy guilloche dial, and a double deployant but despite the new deployant, the standard strap is still too long for a balanced fit (this is one of the reasons I prefer tang buckles).

Overall, it's a boringly well proportioned watch (as dress watches should be) housing a modest movement, but despite these characteristics, I have no qualms recommending this to anyone with nearly any wrist size. Strap problems can be overcome and nothing can beat the reverso for aesthetically perfect proportions (1:1.618).

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