Wednesday, April 3, 2013

A shocking affair: Distinguishing between academics and application in horology.

Extreme sports are probably the favorite marketing tool of watchmakers, after all, are they not exposed to great shocks and incredible g forces? Pilots are a favorite, sustaining g forces of up to 12gs, making an average male weighing 70 kg exert 12 times (~8,400 newtons) his usual force on himself. However, we must realize that the g forces that a watch strapped to your swinging arm will experience much of the same g forces that a fighter pilot experiences. Since the invention and widespread use of incabloc, diashock, and kif shock protection systems, claiming a watch to be more shock resistant than others is largely meaningless. The balance staff is the most fragile part of the watch, being far smaller than the other pivots, and is well protected to survive 5000+ Gs.

ALthough advertised as extra shock resistant, Richard Mille uses the same incabloc as...

Your run of the mil ETA 2824

Such is the case with most claims of technological advancements in horology, the constant force escapement, Cartier's vacuum sealed ID2, use of fusee and chaine and tourbillon movements. These are theoretical, academic, and artistic exercises rather than true improvements in timekeeping. After all, the ETA 2824, when adjusted well past COSC standards, is the most accurate movement around. Even though tourbillon movements score higher in chronometer contests, their rotational rate compensation is negated by the movements of the wearer's arm.

A Lange & Söhne's fusee and chain is a superb academic exercise

Girard Perregaux's constant force escapement is an excellent idea


This is not to say that development of theoretical improvements in time keeping should not continue, after all, it's what drives the industry. Even the mighty 2824 is feeble in accuracy when compared to The Citizen's +/- 5 seconds a day. This is not the point of modern watchmaking. The accuracy race is done, as long as watches are well made and regulated, real life accuracy should not present a real problem. What we are buying are ideas and exercises in academia, and there's nothing wrong with that.

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