What does a Patek Minute Repeater sound like?

The time being chimed is 11:58

Eleven Ds, Three F# D, and Thirteen F#

DDDDDDDDDDD F#D F#D F#D F#F#F#F#F#F#F#F#F#F#F#F#F#

A Photographic History of Patek Philippe Perpetual Calendar Chronographs

To understand why Patek Philippe is the industry leader requires a separate article which I will write later, but of all the watches that Patek makes, two stand out the most: The perpetual calendar chronograph and the minute repeater. 

Patek made the first perpetual calendar chronograph with ref. 1518 in 1941 and has been making them continuously since. They have all been column wheel chronographs in the most traditional way with the column wheel covered from direct view. Below is a section taken from a Bonham'sauction describing the history of the Patek QP CH (Quantieme Perpetuel, Chronographe)

Ref 1518 from 1941 until 1952 produced in 281 examples 

(WatchTime Magazine)

Ref 2499 from 1950 until 1985 produced in 349 examples
First model with sapphire crystal

(Antiquorum Auction)

Ref 3970 from 1986 until 2005 produced in approximately 4,000 examples 

(HarrisConor Auction)

Ref 5970 from 2005 until 2010 produced in approximately 2,500 examples 

(minutemachines)

Ref 5270 from 2011

(Patek Philippe)

Honorable mention: Patek ref. 5208 (2011) Perpetual Calendar, Chronograph, Minute repeater. Probably the epitome of the brand sans tourbillon. 
Video of a Thierry Stern interview featuring the watch.

Honorable Mention II: 5204 Perpetual Calendar, split seconds chronograph (there are others in this series like the 5004 but these do not belong in the line of perpetual calendar chronographs discussed in this post).

Eric Clapton's Platinum Patek Philippe 2499P at Christie's (and what you could buy instead)

A quick photographic history of Patek Philippe Perpetual Calendar Chronographs is here

Christie's auctions have been known to offer some of the rarest and most exceptional watches. This upcoming auction is no exception. While the whole horological world seems to have their eyes set on the platinum Patek Philippe 2499 owned by Eric Clapton (estimate $2,683,456 - $4,293,529), I have my eyes set on a few other very interesting pieces being offered namely the...

Probably the highest resolution photo of the watch in question you'll find anywhere

Eric Clapton wearing the Patek 2499P

Actually during the middle of this post, after researching the 2499 a bit more, the LeCoultre Reverso from 1933 and the Paul Newman Daytona and the Double Red Submariner all seem to matter a lot less than the holy grail that is the 2499P. How could I not geek out about this watch?

At a basic level, the 2499 is a perpetual calendar and a chronograph cased in platinum. At the current market value (1,543 USD/oz) it's worth between 106.34 and 173.91 pounds (or 48 and 79 KG) of pure platinum. A perpetual calendar, while expensive, can be had new for around 10,000 dollars from the respectable Glashutte Original, and a column wheel chronograph from Longines starts at around 3,000 dollars retail. You could even buy this watch in yellow gold for around 300,000 at auction and have a life size platinum statue of yourself made!

Oval Buddha, Platinum plated. Takashi Murakami

So why would anyone on earth buy this instead of a statue that could inspire Shelly into writing Ozymadias? To get the absolute answer you'll probably have to find the anonymous buyer and ask him about it. I think it's fair to say that this watch is so valuable because of the rarity, the beauty, the history, and the craftsmanship - Things you will find in all exemplary watches.

Hodinkee has an excellent article about this watch along with a video

The H-List: #2 Seiko Credor Eichi (GBLR999)

This post was originally going to be titled: Philippe Dufour Simplicity, but I believe there is another watch that is on the same plane. Admiration for a time piece for me comes not only out of complexity and novelty, but also from excellence in execution. The Credor Eichi is the horological pinnacle of the Japanese concept of Kaizen, or continuous improvement. Personally I think this is one of the most elegant watches in the world, with the appropriate dash of edginess from the three numbers on the dial.

Not much needs to be said about the 25 watches, it's 35 mm and Pt950 platinum, with a Noritake porcelain dial with the numbers 2, 4 and 7 in subtle white. It retailed for around 70,000 USD but is no longer made. The specifications of the movement are largely irrelevant except for the fact that it is regulated by Seiko's spring drive technology.

Seiko's spring drive technology is described by the video below and is basically a quartz regulator mechanism that generates its own power from the mainspring. There is some debate on whether this is an improvement (due to its +/- 15 seconds per month rate) or deviation (due to inclusion of electronic components) upon the swiss lever escapement but as long as Seiko stays around, it certainly will prove no issue for servicing. I feel somewhat ambivalent towards Spring Drive, although it is in most empirical terms a superior technology, I do not yet feel ready to have electronic components inside a watch of such a high mechanical level, but perhaps one day I will accept it.

I was unable to obtain any more press photos for the watch bu SJX has many real life scans over at his blog:
http://www.watchesbysjx.com/2011/12/one-of-finest-finished-watches-in-world.html

The H-List: #1 Lange Pour Le Merit Tourbillon

I'm quite picky about watches, with a small wrist and old school sensibilities, I am strongly biased towards wearable watches that feature in-house movements with technical innovations, superb finishing doesn't hurt either. Although I have yet to find a true grail watch that fits all of these criteria, the closest single watch would have to be the A. Lange & Sohne Richard Lange Pour Le Merit Tourbillon.

The specs:
41.9 mm diameter, 12.2 mm high
Rose gold (unlimited) and platinum (100 examples)
Solid silver dial
Pivoting dial hour dial segment
21,600 VPH
351 parts (not including chain)
32 jewels: 31 rubies and 1 diamond
Fusee and chain transmission: Chain comprising of 636 parts
One minute tourbillon driving the seconds hand
Plates and bridges made of untreated nickel silver
Power reserve of 36 hours (artificially limited to provide optimum torque).
Assembled twice for optimum tolerances
MSRP (USD): Pink Gold 185,300, Platinum 223,600

Unlike many wo write about the watch, I have handled and tried on an example in platinum. But I have to say, anyone who muses over the watch is right to do so. At 42 by 12 mm, the PLM is similar in size to most medium sized dive watches, only a tad bit thinner.

Unlike these ETA powered watches, this is probably the best time-only watch on the planet, with the sole possible contender being Philippe Dufour's simplicity. It is also the finnest example of a regulator, in my opinion, being slightly better than the new 2012 Patek Philippe Annual Calendar Regulator. The dial is interesting and asymmetrical in the finnest Saxon tradition while the exacting details of the movements can never be adequately described using words.

Although the watch is German, a word that many associate with boring, strict, and over-engineered, it is perhaps only the latter two. The finish is immaculate and every aspect is perfect. It may cost as much as a middle-class house, but be assured that you're getting no less. The only hope I have for this watch is that it be a little bit smaller at perhaps 39 mm and 8mm, but that's an unreasonable expectation for such a complex watch.

I can continue to applaud the watch's technical achievements, but such a watch is not about that. This watch is about art and perfection, expressed through engineering instead of a brush.