I laid down some history and specifications for the Rolex No Date Submariner (14060M) in part 1. The last known retail price of this discontinued model was 6,300 USD in its only version: Steel on a steel bracelet.
Now I can get on with the actual reviewing part. I purchased the watch used for the market price at the time after deciding that I "needed" a Rolex since that was what I had wanted since the 6th grade. I have a fair amount of experience with fine timepieces and I was initially not impressed. I understood and appreciated the history but in the steel, it wasn't as impressive as I had hoped. I eventually found out why and was able to resolve that issue.
A wrist shot with the OEM steel bracelet
You can even pretend to be Bond, James Bond
Watch head
The watch head itself was well finished and had no annoyingly sharp edges which I absolutely hate. The edges are polished while everything else is brushed. The 904L steel that Rolex loves to advertise is slightly darker than 316L used in most watches but that difference is not so apparent. The 14060M is the last Rolex to have lug holes, a feature I very much appreciate since it makes switching out the bracelet much easier.
Polished side with traditional lug holes
As far as dials are concerned, the dial is glossy but quite plain. Personally I believe that the two line (non-COSC) version is much more attractive due to the watch being a "tool watch". I would have preferred a tritium markers with the characteristic yellow patina but opted for the more advanced movement instead (the 14060 was the last model to have the tritium markers).
Untouched photo showing the glare of the sapphire crystal
The uncoated sapphire crystal is completely flat which, along with the plain dial and mostly brushed case gives the watch an understated feeling. A convex and coated sapphire crystal with a lightly textured dial would have made the watch feel more expensive but would also take away from the Rolex heritage embodied in the watch and move it towards being a Breitling.
Bezel
The bezel is aluminium and will scratch, but can be replaced very easily. I prefer the newer ceramic bezel inserts but at the same time wished it was less shiny and looked more like the aluminium one. The bezel turns smoothly and has 120 clicks.
Movement
The particular example I had was running around 15 seconds fast despite demagnetizing it, while this bothered me quite a bit the 3130 movement is generally known to be a very solid performer that keeps time within COSC specifications (+6/-4 seconds per 24 hours).
The triplock crown (note the three dots)
One very important and special feature of the movement how it manual winds. Most watches with screw down crowns will wind in the first crown position but also wind as you're the crown down. Modern Rolex movements will only wind in the first position but not as it's being screwed down.
Because of Rolex's unique winding system, the movement is exceptionally quiet, but I've never owned anything with a 7750 in it so I've not had loud winding issues before with other watches.
Bracelet
Now comes the cause of my grievance. The bracelet on the submariner is by pretty much any description and evaluation terrible. It's reasonably comfortable, has removable links secured by screws, and light (due to its hollow components), but I can honestly think of no other merit. I understand that the watch is a "tool watch" and that it's staying true to its roots with the tuna can bracelet, but they can certainly do better while staying true to heritage.
75% made of stamped metal
End Links
The end links are stamped from metal and bent into shape, a feature I would expect of watches priced under 1000 dollars only. These bend over time and even though they may be bent back into shape, it is no excuse for a brand that everyone thinks so highly of. They have since resolved this with the newer 114060 iteration of the 14060 but the newer bracelet is neither obtainable nor backwards compatible.
Made of stamped metal
The bracelet itself isn't much better, the center links are hollow (read bent sheet metal) and are known to "stretch" overtime. This stretch is actually the rivet fastening the links together wearing down the holes in the links.
An example of stretch
Courtesy of clockmaker.co.au
For small wrists, the bracelet is bad as well, and it's unlikely to fit wrists 6.5 inches and under in a balanced way (clasp on the direct bottom of the wrist) without forcing off a permanent link with a vice grip.
Perhaps something not everyone is interested in doing
The clasp is stamped of stainless steel and feels light and flimsy. The diver's extension does not properly secure onto the clasp with the second smallest micro adjustment hole being used.
Thin clasp
Sheet metal
The flimsy diver's extension
Concluding remarks and on the wrist
For those wanting to have a Rolex for a good price, this watch is definitely the way to go (used). For a tool watch, I would have to say forget about it. There are much better options for about 1/35th the price (one that I will review eventually).
As much as I hate the bracelet, the watch is a pleasure to wear and shines up to a classic beauty with a grey polished stingray strap. I'm just not sure the price, even used, is justified for this watch. All modern mechanical movements can take a lickin' and keep on tickin' and there are much higher quality pieces available at this price level. But regardless, I can't argue with the power of the brand and the heritage.
