Small(ish) Panerais: So close yet a bit far

At SIHH 2013, Panerai released the much critically acclaimed 42mm Radiomir 1940 (PAM00512) which makes this the perfect time for me to talk about the brand from the perspective of a pragmatic watch owner. I still hold that 38 +/– 4 mm is the tolerable size for men's watches, anything smaller than 34 is probably much too feminine and anything over 42 is trying a bit too hard. This is, of course, a general guideline and despite being well in the range, the slight increase in size by Lange in the new Datograph (up to 41 mm from 39 mm) and Patek to its various models (to 40 mm) warns me of an alarming trend across the board: Upsizing.

This dangerous trend is the reason I really appreciate a brand like Panerai (who is often credited to have started this large watch craze) releases something for the pragmatic and aesthetic man such as myself. There are currently two common 40mm models out there: The Luminor Marina and the Luminor 241 Power Reserve. The Marina's dial resembles a white plate placed on a stainless steel counter for me so the 241's hobnail dial and power reserve appeal to me much more. My favorite often overlooked feather of the 241 is its magnifying bubble, which is placed inside the crystal unlike Rolex's protruding cyclops.

Panerai 241 

The 241 had one problem, it used a modified ETA movement (chronograph-less 7750). The new Radiomir 512 solves this problem and incorporates their pleasant 999 in house caliber with a micrometer adjustment. If you haven't watched Panerai's How It's Made videos, you should do so now to get an appreciation of Panerai's very mechanical approach to watchmaking.

ETA 7750 (Panerai's is much more pleasing to look at and has no chronograph layer)

Panerai's Hand Wound Cal 999 is much prettier (but not free sprung)

Hopefully they'll be out at the dealers for me to try in the metal, but meanwhile, shrink on Panerai!